Month: February 2017

Christopher Ræburn – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

A fantastic ultra modern jacket. The jacket has been cut into asymmetric panels. Lots of industrial strength Velcro. I especially like the triple straps on the hem and also on the hood, lovely detail. I love those puffer shorts they are really fantastic, worn on top of some great skinny jeans, my favourite styling with those extra big turn ups. Let’s not forget the colouring, the khaki is soft and light and the grey is earthy like dark clay, wonderful combination.

This outfit is all about texture. You have your normal plain sweatshirt loopback, then a textured waffle and last if all that brushed fleece. The sweet pants, the hoodie with the double sleeve detail and the scarf all put together with random panels. Keeping it all tonal just adds another layer. Love it.

An interesting reworking of the bomber jacket, the cut outs are total random and organic in shape. The tee underneath in the sky blue seems to be made of a nylon waterproof fabric, translucent, finished with a grey rib. The tee underneath that is a simple printed white tee. Black jeans, note the double turn up which is a nice detail.

Camouflage is my all time favourite print, my wardrobe is full. The real trick is the ability to do something different with the print…. Christopher Ræburn does not disappoint, his camo is made up of different panels cut into camo shapes. The placement is interesting with most of the panels concentrated near the top of each garment. The styles themselves are your classic sweatshirt and track bottoms conbos.

More of that same Camo but this time in a zipped sweatshirt. Really loving those colours as week. The base colour is black but not your true black, missed with Navy and two different khaki’s. The bottoms are as before with the panelled tracksuit bottoms. Mixed fabrics, the waffle, plain and brushed fleece. I like the slanted zip pockets.

I love love love this beautiful wool duffle coat. Those panels stitched on top to give it that Camo look are fantastic, those colours just gorgeous especially the luminous green, which compliments the grey and navy so well. The stark contrast with the super clean white is lovely.

I love knitwear and this chunky knit is just gorgeous. Again it’s full of texture, lots of panels placed in a very geometric design. It’s those colours, the greys and that lush luminous green, a fantastic combination. The black jeans as before.

Another great jacket, biker style in wool, patches of grey, navy and luminous green, Camo in design, beautiful. The hoodie underneath is a tonal patchwork of fabrics, plain sweatshirt, waffle and that brushed fleece. The white bottoms again just to give it that little bit extra for contrast.

Oversize is here to stay in Menswear. Fantastic oversized cardigan, same lush patchwork of knits in the same lunch colours as before. This time with the added accessory of an oversize scarf. Simple,black jeans and the lovely detail of that luminous green used to lace up those boots. Gorgeous.

More of that tonal patchwork with the panels in plain, waffle me brushed fleece. I like this light grey it’s a great base colour. The jacket is a quilted nylon jacket, the darker slate grey really works well. Black jeans as before with the double turn up detail.

Christopher Ræburn A/W 17 – a wonderful collection. So full of texture, I love the brushed fleece, mixed with the waffle fabric. Then there is the Nylons and Poly fabrics all used to create outfits that would easily be used for the great outdoors. I love the industrial Velcro fastenings, very cool. My favourite detail in those show is the amazing reworking of the Camo print, especially the colours used and that beautiful combination of Grey, Navy and Luminous green. This collection is full of fantastic ideas and detail and should be a great inspiration to the high street.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/christopher-raeburn/slideshow/collection

Belstaff – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

A fantastic leather pilots jacket, finished with wool lining. The leather finish is beautifully aged. Simple raw denim jeans, love the turn ups but what really sets off the outfit is that tan belt. Love it.

Is that time? The return of the stone colour jeans? Well it seems so, the cut is straight, the hem turned up the belt a real feature. Classic cotton shirt in the same stone colour as the jeans. The leather jacket another beauty, again fur lined. Such a classic look.

Such a beautiful long line naval Peacoat. Just look at the buttons, the side belts to the sleeves, those big patch pockets. Stone jeans as before and to finish the classic stripe naval jumper. I love this look.

Another classic Peacoat but this one shorter and the buttons more workmanlike. The jeans are leather and cut tight around the legs. The jumper a beautiful cable knit, but it’s the large scale of the knit that really impresses.

Some call it wine and some call it burgundy, we could say Ox blood as well. No matter what you choose you can’t argue that this colour isn’t beautiful. A collarless biker jacket and I love the detail of the extra padding to the shoulders. Lovely roll neck knit, grey raw denim jeans and again I love love love that tan belt. Gorgeous.

A fantastic waxed jacket, again in the gorgeous wine colour. The look is very workwear, loads of pockets and I like that belt to the waist. The press studs with the extra large head is a lovely detail. Leather trousers as before.

Another wax jacket, lovely styling. I like big patch pockets and the pocket on the chest with the vertical pocket flap. Built up collars to keep you warm when the wind is blowing. The jacket underneath looks like its denim. The styling is more Harrington then western which is a great idea. I’ve always liked the double jacket look. 

Belstaff A/W 17 – Another classic Belstaff collection. The jackets as always are beautiful and very well crafted. Classically cut and executed, every detail is well thought out and designed. The return of the stone coloured jeans, could they really infiltrate my wardrobe? Well maybe… that amazing Naval Peacoat could certainly have a place. The one item I really fell for is that beautiful tan belt, works so well with raw denim. A wonderful collection, full of the very best styling. 

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/belstaff/slideshow/collection

E. Tautz – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

A wonderful four button double breasted suit. Beautiful soft tailoring, love those big lapels. The texture of the fabric is lovely. Simple check shirt, layered with a stone colour tee underneath.

A fly fronted grandad collar shirt, I like the press stud fastening a lovely detail. Wonderfully tailored one button single breasted suit. I really love the cut of those trousers and the way the fabric drapes, narrow to the ankle. A lovely overcoat on top to finish.

Now this outfit shows the versatility of denim, the trouser cut in wide to keep that same drape. Contrast stitching to give it that authentic look. Lovely boucle knit jumper in that gorgeous green fern colour, the texture is a wonderful contrast to the base denim.

Same denim trousers as before but this time matched with an amazing one button single breasted blazer, this time the tailoring is a little sharper, the shoulders firmer and the lines clean and sharpe. I like the mustard colouring and again just that little bit of speckle to add texture. The shirt fly fronted and fastened with press studs, lovely khaki colouring.

Let’s start off with the trousers first, again great drape, classic navy colouring. Interesting double shirt styling. A pale yellow shirt underneath, the top shirt has a placket front, press stud fastening in a lovely navy/grey colour. The star of the outfit is that gorgeous wool overcoat, I like the simple clean lines, not too much detail, simple zip and press studs and I like the tie on the sleeves. The khaki colour is gorgeous and compliments so well with the navy.

A beautiful outfit comprising of all grey colouring. The drape trousers a dark clay grey colour, I really love this colour and it’s a nice alternative to khaki. The grandad collar shirt, fly fronted and press stud fastening, with a simple yet effect grid check. The blazer is stunning, beautifully cut in simple clear lines and one button fastening. Loving this one.

A lovely four button double breasted overcoat. The button placement is interesting, higher then the waist, giving the overcoat a strong shape to the chest. A simple grey check. The suit and shirt are a tonal match, what’s nice is the texture to the suit which works well with the overcoat.

Another beautiful check suit, the same wonderful drape and cut that’s used throughout this collection. The check itself is subtle and adds an extra depth to the texture of the suit. The same fly fronted grandad collar shirt as before, sharpe contrast to the grey with that stone colour.

Just the most gorgeous moss green trousers, such a wonderful colour. A wonderful detail with the crease on the trousers giving a real sharpness to the trousers. A lovely chambray blue shirt with a fly front placket, lovely patch pocket detail. The jacket a simple navy blue Harrington jacket to finish.

I love this anorak, simply gorgeous. Lovely detail with the zip front and drawstring hood. This is one I’d love to have in my own wardrobe. The trousers are a beautiful rich navy needlecord. 

It’s that magical moss green colour again. A beautiful textured fabric, the suit a soft tailored four button double breasted version. The knit a black boucle and the shirt a med size gingham check. What I love is the textures, it brings the outfit to life.

E. Tautz A/W 17 – Last seasons collection was one of my favourites and the Autumn/Winter collection does not disappoint. The beauty of the outfits comes from the simple shape and cut, wonderful tailoring. Strong, deep, rich colours. The moss green the real standout for me. The added layers are the texture, the check patterns on the overcoats and the suits, the shiny boucle yarn used on the knitwear and the simple cotton used on the shirts work so well together. Let’s not miss out the details especially the press stud fastening used throughout the grandad collar shits. This is a wonderful collection that needs your time to study and appreciate. Beautiful.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/e-tautz/slideshow/collection

Coach 1941 – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

A wonderful reworking of the satin baseball jacket, love that bronze colour and the striped ribs. The texture is contrasted with that fun fur waistcoat. The checked trouser have an amazing structured cut to them, the check itself with those colours is gorgeous. Simple sweatshirt underneath with a large space shuttle appliqué.

Another amazing satin baseball jacket, beautiful rich purple, black and that bright yellow. More appliqué badges, classic ‘HARLEM’ Americana styling. The pocket detail is very cool, with that stitching showing the outline and then those pockets with the piping edge. Lovely structured check trousers as before and again a simple sweatshirt with a motif.

Now this is a stunning jacket which I would love in my own wardrobe. Let’s start with that ocean blue colour Suede, so deep and rich. The crop length, the detail of the big ribs, the leather bands on the shoulders, the big buttons and then the press studs at the end, classic flap pockets on the chest and last but not least covered in badges. Some people say less is more but not with a jacket like this. Wonderful red and brown check trousers, I love this combination.

Another great jacket, classic leather biker with a fur collar. I love that tan colour. Again it’s the detail to the design that I love the pocket flaps with the studs. Another amazing check, black, green and a hint of orange. The contrast of that blue jumper is lovely… and who can say no to ice cream.

Such a gorgeous leather jacket. I love that deep wine colour, press stud fastening. The leather has been given a buff finish to make it shine. The checked trousers matches perfectly with the jacket, that bright purple jumper adds that pop of colour.

A fantastic reworking of the satin baseball jacket. Press stud fastening and note the drawstring channeled on the hem, a lovely detail. Ice-cream, space and stars badges, appliqués and embroidery it’s all put together on this jacket. The zipped sweatshirt underneath is made of a beautiful textured terry cloth fabric in a lovely blush pink. The extra large zip is a nice touch. The check trousers as before and we get a chance to really see the panel running down the side and the flash of red at the bottom hem.

A wonderful leather overcoat, fur collars. I like the short zip to the inner front panels a lovely detail. A classic tracksuit top, that mustard yellow and the burgundy piping is fantastic. The mustard continues with a simple sweatshirt underneath the tracksuit top. The check as always matched in its colouring.

Another stunning outfit. Furry terry clothe classic baseball jacket. I like the rib detail especially the rib at the sleeve crown lovely detail. The space themed badges are very cool. The sweatshirt I love, the white is a lovely contrast, fantastic NASA badge, love it. I’ve yet to mention the paisley tees shirts, they are fantastic and a great way to add layering any outfit.

A good change up to the outfits. An amazing check double breasted overcoat. The jacket is beautifully tailored, lovely sharpe lines. You can just make out a furry terry cloth waistcoat underneath. The knitted check jacket has lovely colouring, the grey base and the black, brown and yellow works so well. That amazing mustard yellow continues to those trousers.

You have leather, you have Suede you can’t forget denim. Another great jacket, I love the crop length, the fur trim the big pockets with the top stitch detail, really cool star embroidery detail. Classic tracksuit top as before, lovely deep red, piping in navy blue. Paisley print tee underneath and as always matching checking trouser, but this one cut with a slight flare to the hem.

Another supercool leather jacket and I am loving the crop length. Classic biker style, lovely zip detail and the epaulettes are a nice touch. Gorgeous deep v neck jumper, nice rib detail around the neck accented with the yellow around the edge. Paisley tee and check trousers as before.

A mishmash of a overcoat/jacket. Cut like a parka but styled like a baseball jacket. Satin and wool mix with a fur collar. Lovely cream stripe on the sleeve ribs and the piping around the pocket also in cream adds to the whole look. Bright red jumper with ice cream motif, Paisley tee and check trousers.

A simple reworking of the collarless biker jacket. I like the Royal blue leather front panels, the sleeve in satin and cut raglan finished with a ribbed cuff. Lovely zip detail. The grey sweat underneath works well with the colours and as always the Paisley tee and check trousers.

Coach 1941 A/W 17 – I really love this collection, wonderfully retro yet effortlessly wearable for right now. The jackets are the Heroes, the Leather, The Suede, a hint of Denim a liberal touch of Satin, accented with bright colours, fur, badges, appliqués embroidery and zips. For me the crop length on some of the jackets really work well. The attention to detail is lovely, the Paisley tees could instantly be missed but are integral to the overall look and layering to this collection. The check trousers are beautifully tailored and have a fantastic structure to them. Classic Americana styling done so so well. A stunning collection with some great ideas to add to your Autumn and Winter look for 2017.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/coach/slideshow/collection

Casely-Hayford A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

The humble grandad collar shirt. Great detail with oversized contrast button and the button stand. I love that grey coat that’s underneath. The parka has a fantastic print, the pockets and the Velcro fastenings are all great design details. What works well are the different coat lengths, a great feature as the usual way to wear a double coat is the shorter coat underneath and the longer coat on top, this is a lovely way of mixing it up a little.

The grandad collar continues. A really lovely checked four button double breasted blazer. The contrast with the chalk stripe trousers is interesting and adds another level to this outfit. The cropped knitted jumper is a beautiful shade of teal green, but you can’t really see the rib work that’s incorporated into the design which is a shame.

I really love those trousers, the drape, the fullness around the ankles, sharpe pleats and the texture to the fabric just beautiful. Simple stripe jumper, the extended neck rib adds another layer to this whole look. A wonderful single breasted overcoat, simple and beautiful.

This is a fantastic reworking of the tracksuit top. I love the detail of the high rib neck turning into a roll neck, it looks amazing. Great zip detail to give it that finish. The trousers have a fantastic print to them and it all works really well with that beautiful grey overcoat.

The crop length is used throughout this show. Beautiful crop grandad collar shirt. I’m not sure if the waistcoat is apart of the shirt or if it’s a separate garment but what I do know is that it’s the same fabric as the shirt, the shoulders are extended to give structure to the look. The trouser are the same chalk stripe trousers as before.

Such a beautiful grey double breasted overcoat. I really love that functional lapels and the way it’s pulled over the neckline. The trousers have a great look to them, I like the distressed treads but incorporated into a polka dot pattern.

A wonderfully tailored single breasted suit. The big rib roll neck tracksuit top as before. Lovely double zip detail, I like the styling with the bottom zip open.

A beautiful double breasted blazer, I love that grey fabric. A gorgeous colour blocked waistcoat underneath. Beautiful leather bands and pocket flaps. The trousers are as before with that wonderful ethnic print. 

A beautiful collection, quintessentially British. Wonderful overcoats, I really like the parka with the print worn on top of a longer overcoat, lovely styling. The knits have unusual asymmetric necklines, the colours are fantastic especially the teal. Prints are subtle and have a depth and texture. The tailoring is soft and full of detail, great pleats and extended waistbands. The fabric in checks and one of my favourites the chalk stripes work so well. The sportsluxe crossover doesn’t seem to be losing momentum, the tracksuit top with the double zip detail and that amazing extra large rib collar is contrasted with a wonderfully tailored single breasted suit. 

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/casely-hayford/slideshow/collection