Tag: aw17

Oliver Spencer – AW 17

Posted on by Umash

What a wonderful combination. The Prince of Wales check trousers are stunning, I love the use of scale which adds a extra texture to the look. The roll neck jumper in the mini stripe, lovely detail how the roll neck panel itself has been knitted tight around the neck. The you have a fantastic wool collar overcoat. Double breasted in a deep dark navy, a classic combination of navy and grey. Oh another detail which I can’t miss out is the thumb hole on the longs sleeves of that roll neck jumper.

A wonderful soft tailored suit and a fantastic chalk stripe. I like the unstructured blazer it looks very comfortable, note the turn ups on the trousers. A play on the visual senses with the use of that jumper and its horizontal stripe as opposed to the vertical stripe on the suit. Again the use of the thumb hole on the sleeves of the jumpers, lovely detail.

A lovely wool collar Harrington jacket, love those patch pockets and great detail with the double puller zip, very cool. Also note the khaki zip panel on the jacket. Tricolour stripe top is simple and sits just under the jacket and it’s nice to see that the top is just a normal length and not oversized. The same Prince of Wales check trousers, gorgeous.

A very subtle version of the Prince of Wales check in Navy used for the trousers. The jumper has a beautiful texture to it, the contrast rib on the neck is a great detail. A wonderful Mandarin collar blazer, relaxed tailoring, soft shoulders and patch pockets.

Another look at that subtle Navy Prince of Wales check used for fantastic single breasted blazer. Great trousers, love the chalk stripe and then with a little nod to the biker jeans the patches on the knees have the stripes going horizontally which is a fantastic look. The fleck knit turtle neck jumper is lovely, especially the chunky rib neck, great detail.

I really love this look, an amazing collarless three button single breasted blazer, beautiful relaxed soft tailoring matched with that wonderful graphic tee, classic grey and navy. Going back to the blazer, there are no pockets on the front and the sleeves have a self fabric cuff. The trousers have patches on the knees this time contrasted in grey, the cut is baggy but narrows at the leg hem.

The trend of the bomber jacket continues and this version has got to be one of my favourites. That wonderful Prince of Wales check, the detail of the double puller zip, the black rib used on the hem, collar, cuff and those big patch pockets finished with those press studs just lovely. Matching trousers if you feel brave enough, that same cut with the wide trouser leg, narrowing at the end, finished with a good size turn up.

Ahh the colour of the year that wonderful blush pink used to great effect with those knee patch trousers. The colour compliments so well with the grey turtle neck jumper, note the extra long sleeves with the thumb hole, love it. The two button single breasted blazer in the Prince of Wales check finishes this outfit off beautifully.

Such beautiful colours in this collection. Let’s start off with that jacket, really simple collared Harrington jacket. I really like the hem band with the top stitching and the yoke seam with the slit pocket on one side, lovely detail. The textured turtle neck knitted jumper is in a gorgeous washed denim blue. The knee patch trousers are in a earthy purple/brown colour which is a wonderful dark base for this outfit. Outstanding.

Wow, a beautiful jumper and cardigan twinset all in that wonderful Chevron pattern. The colours are fantastic, the burgundy and navy are a classic. The jumper is very simple, the cardigan is longline and has no fastening. I just love those trousers, the leg shape really narrows down to the ankle buts it’s the texture and that amazing taupe colour that takes this look to another level. Just beautiful.

A fantastic Mandarin collar suit. The same Taupe fabric as before, it has a wonderful texture and colour to it. The simple stripe tee underneath is very cool and the. That amazing collarless overcoat in navy adds another layer to this whole look. 

Velvet another trend that keeps on going, the richness in colour is stunning with this dark khaki Velvet. The trousers as before with the wide cut and then the bomber jacket again with the big patch pockets. The zip detail with the double pullers all as before.

Oliver Spencer AW 17 – A wonderfully British collection, beautiful fabrics, wonderful texture, great knits everything the true gentlemen would need for his winter wardrobe. Lots of detail, like,the double puller on the zips, the knee patches on the trousers. The wonderful use of traditional cloths and patterns like the chalk stripe and the Prince of Wales checks but the tailoring is soft and relaxed. The trousers are cut carrot shape, wide at the top and narrow at the hem, turn ups are added liberally, the overcoats are collarless which almost make them look like oversized cardigans. For me the heroes are the knitwear, the colours and the textures are fantastic, my favourite has to be the jumper-cardigan twinsets, Navy and Burgundy chevrons, just gorgeous. 

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/oliver-spencer/slideshow/collection

Matthew Miller – A/W17

Posted on by Umash

A wonderful jacket, I love those zips with the oversize leather pullers and exposed tape, really nice detail. Note the cuff and hem of the jacket and the way the elastic is channelled into the hem and not overlocked on as a separate piece. It’s all about texture. The roll neck jumper in that brick red compliments the grey of the jacket beautifully. You can’t see much of the tops that are layered underneath, you can only see the different lengths. I love scarfs and this one is gorgeous, I can’t resist that digital print.

Autumn and Winter is all about layering and this outfit is done so well. I really love that short sleeve sweatshirt, the oversized length yet the fit is snug and close to the body. The roll neck jumper with those skinny arms is lovely and works so well. The cut of those skinny trousers adds to the clearness of this outfit.

A wonderful criss cross texture on the hoodie. The detail we are starting to see in a few collections this season is that thicker ribbon used as the ties in the hood, extra long to really exaggerate the detail. The jumper underneath sits longer then the top to add to the layers. Simple slim trousers to compliment the whole look.

What an incredible jacquard overcoat, simply beautiful almost looks like a print. Again that brick red roll neck adds that pop of colour that just lifts the outfit to the. Extra level. Simple slim trousers as before.

The textured overcoats keep on coming and another great example in this outfit. Before we talk about the coat let’s just mention the sweatshirt roll neck combination, we saw it earlier in the show but it’s such a great look adding the overcoat completes a great outfit. The overcoat itself, 3 button single breasted and the cut is snug, it fits close to the body and adds great structure.

A stunning leather biker jacket finished with wool lining. The zips have got those extra long leather pullers which are a lovely detail. What really works well is the layering in this outfit. I like that the leather jacket is worn over an overcoat, the difference in lengths give an interesting look. Then you have a longline sweatshirt which again adds to visual aesthetics of this outfit. Beautiful.

Matthew Miller A/W17 – A wonderful collection, incredibly limited in its colour pallet but that it’s a negative by any means. The colour that has been added to the black and grey compliments the outfits so well. I love that brick red which adds another layer of sophistication. Well thought out combinations of layers, visually interesting with the lengths of jackets, overcoats and sweatshirts. This collection is a complete wardrobe for a man of taste, sophistication and simplicity. Stunning.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/matthew-miller/slideshow/collection

Miharayasuhiro – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

Fantastic leather jacket loving that wool lining very cool. The hood is really cool and that zip with the extra large puller. Note the kangaroo type pockets on the front. Really interesting trousers with the crop length and turn ups.

Scale plays an key part in this outfit, loving the large details to,this overcoat. The collars are big, the pockets are big, the sleeves are wide and then that belt with the silver bucket just fantastic. The wide trousers just seem to work really well for the overall look.

A very cool distressed knitted jumper, I like the tight knit, it works really well. A great wool overcoat, single button, lovely detail with it being collarless. It’s a shame we can’t see more of the crop trouser as there is just a hint of detail showing.

Wonderfully tailored suit, two button single blazer. The distressed sleeve hem is a fantastic detail. The trousers have a lovely drape to it, extra large bucket on the trousers. The ribbon that ties the blazer is interesting, it’s a nice way of holding the shape of the blazer without fastening the buttons.

A lovely reworking of the puffer jacket. The top stitch that makes the quilting effect is missing, giving a smooth finish. The zip is finished asymmetric and again a fantastic zip with an extra large puller. The trousers are Velvet, cut slim with a seam stitched into the front. 

Another great suit, the fabric is a pinstripe with a twist. The space between each stripe is wide and the brown is complimented well with the navy stripe. The ribbon as detail as the suit before. The jumper underneath has that keyhole to the neck rib which we are seeing more of with the distressed look. The real winner is that scarf with the rib cuff detail made to look like sleeves, I love it.

A fantastic utility jacket in Suede, the colour is gorgeous in that Khaki. The patch pockets have what looks like weighted flaps. It’s that waistline tie with the extra large ribbon that really sets it off, the same ribbon used for the hood. The leather trousers are cut wide and have that Sportsluxe stripe running down the sides.

Let’s start with that knitted jumper, the knit itself has a stripe with adds great texture. The keyhole on the side of the jumper is interesting. The orange colour is beautiful and it works really well with the rust. The jacket is lovely, I love those collars, great patch pockets with those inverted box pleats, lovely buttons and that amazing oversized belt to the hem. The trousers are wide but the fabric give it great structure.

Texture plays a huge part of fashion, I love this dressing gown overcoat very cool. A gorgeous roll neck textured jumper. The jersey track bottoms are fantastic, the rib cuff is extra large which works so well with this relaxed look. 

Miharayasuhiro A/W 17 – A really interesting collection full wonderful ideas and detail. Scale plays a great part in this collection. The buckles, zips and pullers are all extra large. The overcoats have large lapels and wider sleeves. The large jackets and overcoats are contrasted by the crop trousers, the whole look is lovely. The suits have a great cut, I like the distressed sleeve hem and the wide trousers. All in all a lovely collection and well worth a good look.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/miharayasuhiro

Lou Dalton – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

A stunning two button single breasted suit. Lovely relaxed tailoring a nice detail is the patch pockets a slightly longer then the hem. A touch of the Sportsluxe with the trainers and I love that tee, a perfect combination of grey and pink to compliment that white. Gorgeous.

It’s all about texture when it comes to knitwear. It’s an interesting knit. The bobbles, I like them, I like the uniformity of it works really well. Simple drape trousers, the simplicity is the beauty of it.

Stripes, seem to be seeing a lot of them this season in both Menswear and Womenswear where knitwear is concerned. The classic combination of camel and black colouring, the stripe engineered so that it goes across the chest and sleeves in a continuous line.

Another version of the bobbles jumpers, looks great on black. The chambray trouser are lovely and a nice change up from using a heavier weighted denim. The colouring is bolder, it’s a lovely rich blue. I can’t tell whether they are gloves or a lightweight jumper underneath but the detail of the hand warmers are very cool.

The chambray used to maximum effect in this outfit. The same shape trousers, wide and full of drape. A really cool bug winter coat, almost a puffer, you can see the fullness in the lining. I love the big colours and those wonderful pockets to the front. And how could we miss the textured “balls” jumper and that stunning Orange. Just fantastic.

Lou Dalton A/W 17 – A wonderful collection. Small but perfectly designed. I love the simplicity of it, the colour palette, the shapes, the soft tailoring it’s fantastic. Texture is a important aspect of this collection. The bobble jumper being a real standout. The chambray is a also a fantastic touch, I love the gorgeous blue tone used, the drape on the trousers and it’s a real breath of fresh air from the usual heavier denim and with the bleaching, rips, patches and effects we’ve seen in the last few seasons.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/lou-dalton/slideshow/collection

Katie Eary – A/W 17

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A fantastic outfit, love that amazing 70’s print on the shirt. Lovely white piping on the edge of the shawl collar. The trousers have a lovely waffle texture to them, wonderfully cut slim. The jacket is the real hero, again the texture is fantastic, collarless which helps to style the shirt, last but not least that slate grey colour. The contrast works amazingly well.

What a stunning leather jacket. The wool lining is fantastic, I love the detail of the seams showing on the outside of the jacket, beautiful brown colouring. Oversized orange printed shirt underneath and stylish slim black trousers.

The shawl collar, a great detail used throughout this collection. Another gorgeous 70’s inspired print. I really like the piping on the edge of the shirt jacket, fantastic. Simple slim black trousers.

A really interesting crop jumper with a choker style neck. The tight rib knit gives great structure and holds the crop shape well. The wide boat neck would have been enough but the choker neck which has been so popular in womenswear over the last few years has transitioned into menswear. You can’t really see the shirt that well the colours used are no doubt awesome. The trousers incorporate a printed and elasticated waistband. Very cool.

A really lovely raglan sleeve T-shirt. This season we are really seeing more use of the raglan sleeve. The sleeve itself has a great shape and drape to it, I love it. Note the crop length. Oh and we can’t miss our the chameleon print, the orange compliments the purple so well.

Another great crop knitted jumper. Beautiful graduated colouring. The keyhole neckline is interesting. Again you can’t really see the detail to that shirt which is a real shame. Simple slim black trousers.

Katie Eary A/W 17 – A wonderful collection, 70’s inspired prints which are just gorgeous. I love the orange colouring which permeates this collection. The most wonderful contrast is the slate grey although the purple is another star. The whole collection has a great use of texture. The wool lining on the sleek leather, the tight rib knit, the smooth silk which holds the vibrant prints so well. I’m a real fan of wearing colour and this collection shows you how to wear colour without fear, just gorgeous.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/katie-eary/slideshow/collection

Joseph – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

Fantastic mohair overcoat. I really like that three button detail. That full length makes a real statement. The grandad collar shirt underneath has great detail with a double button fastening, it looks very sharpe in white. Beautifully tailored grey check trousers completes the look. Effortlessly sophisticated.

An interesting roll neck jumper. The red detailing is lovely, there is just the right amount of teasing. The little splash around the neck, it’s the inverted seams that I really like. Note that this jumper is more of a dolman sleeve, that shoulder seam is very low.

Very eclectic styling. Let’s start off with that blazer, a wonderful light base check. I love that stripe grandad collar shirt with the double button fastening. I love that amazing grey V neck jumper, it’s another one for my own wardrobe. The trouser are leather in a fantastic blue/grey.

Oh I love this Fair Isle tank top, the colour are amazing the navy blue contrasted with that golden yellow. The stripe grandad collar shirt is as before. The trouser are in the same light base check as the blazer before.

A hint of Sportsluxe with those double stripe trousers which are lovely. Especially that stay in crease on the front. You can’t see much of the stripe shirt. Another amazing statement overcoat, fantastic oversize shape especially love those sleeves. 

More of the Sportsluxe look, really great combination with those double stripe trousers. An amazing Fair Isle jumper, great combination of colours. It’s that sleeveless leather jacket that’s the real hero. The wool lining is gorgeous and those buttons with the loop fastening is fantastic.

This is my favourite outfit, those check trouser are fantastic. I love the grey, the cobalt blue and red. The grey Fair Isle jumper, the deep V neck is a great detail. Love the grandad collar shirt, stark contrast in optic white. Another great wool oversized overcoat, double breasted, love those big collars. 

More Sportsluxe with those trousers. Love those narrow legs and the rib cuffs, the big patch pockets to the front. I love that grey knitted rib jumper and it works so well with the knit cardigan. These are the sort of colours that are classic and I live in everyday. Very cool.

Soft tailoring at its very finest. A gorgeous oatmeal blazer, textured with a herringbone design. I love the top stitch detail around the lapels and pockets. Oversized grey V neck knitted jumper, love those ribs hanging out of the sleeves a great styling detail. Soft tailored Sportsluxe trousers as before. A beautiful outfit.

Joseph A/W 17 – A simple yet beautiful collection. Wonderful soft tailoring, real statement overcoats and the most wonderful knitwear. I love the contrasts of checks mixed with Fair Isle knits, simple ribs and a touch of Sportsluxe. The styling is fantastic with the oversized shapes, rib cuffs protruding from sleeves, in fact all the sleeves are just that little bit long and cover your hands. Oversized is the look without making you feel like Tom Hanks at the end of ‘Big’. I’ve already started looking for my Vintage Wolsey Fair Isle jumpers from the back of my wardrobe. Inspiration. 

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/joseph/slideshow/collection

Christopher Ræburn – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

A fantastic ultra modern jacket. The jacket has been cut into asymmetric panels. Lots of industrial strength Velcro. I especially like the triple straps on the hem and also on the hood, lovely detail. I love those puffer shorts they are really fantastic, worn on top of some great skinny jeans, my favourite styling with those extra big turn ups. Let’s not forget the colouring, the khaki is soft and light and the grey is earthy like dark clay, wonderful combination.

This outfit is all about texture. You have your normal plain sweatshirt loopback, then a textured waffle and last if all that brushed fleece. The sweet pants, the hoodie with the double sleeve detail and the scarf all put together with random panels. Keeping it all tonal just adds another layer. Love it.

An interesting reworking of the bomber jacket, the cut outs are total random and organic in shape. The tee underneath in the sky blue seems to be made of a nylon waterproof fabric, translucent, finished with a grey rib. The tee underneath that is a simple printed white tee. Black jeans, note the double turn up which is a nice detail.

Camouflage is my all time favourite print, my wardrobe is full. The real trick is the ability to do something different with the print…. Christopher Ræburn does not disappoint, his camo is made up of different panels cut into camo shapes. The placement is interesting with most of the panels concentrated near the top of each garment. The styles themselves are your classic sweatshirt and track bottoms conbos.

More of that same Camo but this time in a zipped sweatshirt. Really loving those colours as week. The base colour is black but not your true black, missed with Navy and two different khaki’s. The bottoms are as before with the panelled tracksuit bottoms. Mixed fabrics, the waffle, plain and brushed fleece. I like the slanted zip pockets.

I love love love this beautiful wool duffle coat. Those panels stitched on top to give it that Camo look are fantastic, those colours just gorgeous especially the luminous green, which compliments the grey and navy so well. The stark contrast with the super clean white is lovely.

I love knitwear and this chunky knit is just gorgeous. Again it’s full of texture, lots of panels placed in a very geometric design. It’s those colours, the greys and that lush luminous green, a fantastic combination. The black jeans as before.

Another great jacket, biker style in wool, patches of grey, navy and luminous green, Camo in design, beautiful. The hoodie underneath is a tonal patchwork of fabrics, plain sweatshirt, waffle and that brushed fleece. The white bottoms again just to give it that little bit extra for contrast.

Oversize is here to stay in Menswear. Fantastic oversized cardigan, same lush patchwork of knits in the same lunch colours as before. This time with the added accessory of an oversize scarf. Simple,black jeans and the lovely detail of that luminous green used to lace up those boots. Gorgeous.

More of that tonal patchwork with the panels in plain, waffle me brushed fleece. I like this light grey it’s a great base colour. The jacket is a quilted nylon jacket, the darker slate grey really works well. Black jeans as before with the double turn up detail.

Christopher Ræburn A/W 17 – a wonderful collection. So full of texture, I love the brushed fleece, mixed with the waffle fabric. Then there is the Nylons and Poly fabrics all used to create outfits that would easily be used for the great outdoors. I love the industrial Velcro fastenings, very cool. My favourite detail in those show is the amazing reworking of the Camo print, especially the colours used and that beautiful combination of Grey, Navy and Luminous green. This collection is full of fantastic ideas and detail and should be a great inspiration to the high street.

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/christopher-raeburn/slideshow/collection

Belstaff – A/W 17

Posted on by Umash

A fantastic leather pilots jacket, finished with wool lining. The leather finish is beautifully aged. Simple raw denim jeans, love the turn ups but what really sets off the outfit is that tan belt. Love it.

Is that time? The return of the stone colour jeans? Well it seems so, the cut is straight, the hem turned up the belt a real feature. Classic cotton shirt in the same stone colour as the jeans. The leather jacket another beauty, again fur lined. Such a classic look.

Such a beautiful long line naval Peacoat. Just look at the buttons, the side belts to the sleeves, those big patch pockets. Stone jeans as before and to finish the classic stripe naval jumper. I love this look.

Another classic Peacoat but this one shorter and the buttons more workmanlike. The jeans are leather and cut tight around the legs. The jumper a beautiful cable knit, but it’s the large scale of the knit that really impresses.

Some call it wine and some call it burgundy, we could say Ox blood as well. No matter what you choose you can’t argue that this colour isn’t beautiful. A collarless biker jacket and I love the detail of the extra padding to the shoulders. Lovely roll neck knit, grey raw denim jeans and again I love love love that tan belt. Gorgeous.

A fantastic waxed jacket, again in the gorgeous wine colour. The look is very workwear, loads of pockets and I like that belt to the waist. The press studs with the extra large head is a lovely detail. Leather trousers as before.

Another wax jacket, lovely styling. I like big patch pockets and the pocket on the chest with the vertical pocket flap. Built up collars to keep you warm when the wind is blowing. The jacket underneath looks like its denim. The styling is more Harrington then western which is a great idea. I’ve always liked the double jacket look. 

Belstaff A/W 17 – Another classic Belstaff collection. The jackets as always are beautiful and very well crafted. Classically cut and executed, every detail is well thought out and designed. The return of the stone coloured jeans, could they really infiltrate my wardrobe? Well maybe… that amazing Naval Peacoat could certainly have a place. The one item I really fell for is that beautiful tan belt, works so well with raw denim. A wonderful collection, full of the very best styling. 

http://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/belstaff/slideshow/collection

Astrid Andersen A/W 17

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A fantastic split block jacket. Diamond padded top half and a narrow corduroy bottom half. I like the contrast of the shiny nylon and the matte corduroy, it really works well. The chunky bronze zip detail is lovely. The trousers are corduroy too in that delicious chocolate colour. I love that belt with the gold clasp fastening which I am using myself.

Classic parka jacket. Again a split version with the nylon padded fabric and the contrasted corduroy. The zips all big and chunky are generously applied to this jacket. The bottoms are styled like a classic tracksuit bottom carrying on the sportsluxe theme of the spring summer collection. 

I just love love love this this beautiful lace gold foil tee, cut with a raglan sleeve. I like the rib on the neck and sleeves. Lovely wide leg corduroy trousers. A shame we can’t see the jacket.

The corduroy continues. A classic hoody, raglan sleeve, shoelace tie a lovely detail. The bottoms are cut big and baggy with a pleated front and that clasp fastening on the belt.

A beautiful flowing print shirt and what a print. I like that rich cream base colour and then the feathers which look like they have been printed in watercolour. Simple scarf with the rib edge detail and a printed Varsity number. Lovely skinny tracksuit bottoms / trousers in what appears to be a heavy nylon fabric.

That beautiful feather print continues but this time as a placement print. I love the rich cream colour to this outfit. Simple sweatshirt and tracksuit bottoms, lovely narrow shape to the legs. Such a lovely scarf as before with the rib edge.

I love velvet and I’m using it myself generously at work myself. This deep khaki is such a beautiful colour. A wonderful kimono style jacket, I really like the black edge around the neck be the sleeves. The sweatshirt with the now classic Astrid logo which incidentally works really well because of the size. The bottoms look really cool in that grey and black animal print, the grey compliments the khaki of the velvet really well.

More of the blocking technique being used on this outfit. The classic padded bomber jacket, top half with the same grey and black animal print as before, the bottom half with the padded diamond shape. The blocking has also been used on the tracksuit. The top in the shoe of the vintage Kappa triangle of the 80’s. The bottoms cut in panels just below the knee. 

Simply stunning overcoat, the real star of the show. Beautiful blocking, the top half in black fur and the bottom half in cow hide with Astrid Andersen branded around the hem edge. I love the bronze satin tape that divides the two fabrics. 

Astrid Andersen A/W 17 – a wonderful start to the Autumn / Winter 2017 Menswear collections. Astrid Andersen is fast becoming the go to collection for Sportsluxe with added glamor, when I say added Glamour what I actually mean is……G L A M O U R…. The richness in colours, the use of beautiful fabrics, the delicate prints mixed with classic tracksuit shapes. I really love this collection, it has an attitude, it has a confidence, it has a masculinity yet it is undeniably beautiful. 

http://www.vogue.co.uk/shows/autumn-winter-2017-menswear/astrid-andersen/collection/